Gathering tutorial

Gathering tutorial
Gathering is one of the most essential skills when making garments. It creates fullness, and can also be used for contouring instead of darts - like in our Othelia top pattern. If you're not working off a pattern, you need to determine how much fullness you want to achieve. Generally, 1 1/2 to 2 times the measurement is a good guide line, however thicker fabrics will easily create too much fullness.

1. Using a contrasting thread colour, do two parallel rows of stitches with longest possible stitch length. If your seam allowance is 1 cm (3/8”), do the first stitch 5 mm (1/4”) from the edge, and the second stitch 1,5 cm (1/2”) from the edge. This way the stitches will end up one on each side of the seam line. If you’re gathering long pieces such as an entire skirt, do separate stitches for back and front pieces. Backstitch at one end and leave a long tail of thread at the other end. Don’t cheat by doing just one line of gathering stitches! Your gathers will look much better with two lines of stitches, and they will stay in place better when sewing over the top of the gathers.

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2. Adjust the gathers so they are distributed evenly. Normally the pattern will have notches to help but if you're not working off a pattern measure and mark half and a quarter along both the edge to be gathered, and the edge the gathering will be attached to. Instead of notches you can simply use pins to mark the locations.

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3. Place the piece to be gathered on top and match the notches / pins.

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4. Now let's start gathering! Gently pull from the two thread ends and move the fabric between your fingers. Distribute the gathers evenly.

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When the lengths of fabric edges match and you've checked that the gathers look even, knot the ends of threads together to secure the gathering and use plenty of pins to attach the fabric in place.


5. Stitch the two layers together between the two gathering stitches. (Remember to change stitch length back to normal, unless you want to baste first) Finish the raw edge with your preferred method.

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6. Use a seam ripper to cut the gathering thread in a few places and pull gently to remove. This is where the contrasting thread makes things easier.

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Give it a quick press and you're all done!

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